Latest Posts...

Back To Basics - Adjusting your riding position

Posted by James on January 22, 2008 4:52 PM | Permalink

Getting your riding position right will gensure that you get the most out of your bike

YOU’VE maxed out you credit card to buy your dream bike, so now you need to get the most out of it and there is only one way to do that – make sure it fits perfectly.

First step is to find the perfect saddle height that allows you to use all your leg power in turning the pedals should be a optomised mix between comfort and aerodynamics.

But if the saddle is set too high or too low, you will not be positioned efficiently. Leg muscles work best in the middle of their range of movement, while sitting upright is also not particularly aerodynamic.

Second is the handlebar – if it is not wide enough, your breathing will be constricted and you will feel uncomfortable riding.

Next up is the length of the cranks, qhich can also affect riding efficiency. Just like saddle and handlebars, there are varying lengths of cranks and having the correct size optimises the power transmitted to the pedals.

Crank length is based on inside leg measurement, which is crotch to floor distance, without shoes. As a guide, the optimal crank lengths are 170mm (for an inside leg of 74 to 80cm), 172.5mm (81 to 86cm), and 175mm (87 to 93cm).

Our handy tips below are based on scientific studies into optimum road-bike riding positions and should get you close to your ideal riding position.

You will need someone to help you to check that everything is lining up as it should and it will be necessary to put the bike in a turbo trainer or support it against a wall for Steps 4 and 5.

Finding your ideal riding position
1. Remove one shoe and place your heel on the pedal axle. For your optimum saddle height, your leg should now be straight, so raise or lower the saddle until it is. Sit straight in the saddle when doing this test and do not to lean on the leg that your helper is checking. For an example, click here.

2. Put your shoe back on, engage the pedals and begin to back-pedal. Throughout each pedal revolution your hips should be absolutely level. If they rock at all, your saddle is set too high, and you will have to go back to Step 1 to check the height again. For an example, click here.

3. The widest part of your foot should be directly over the pedal axle. Adjust the cleats on the bottom of your shoes to do this. Then, with the cranks parallel, the end of your femur (the depression in the side of your knee) should be directly above the axle. Adjusting the fore and aft position of the saddle will enable this.

4. Sit on the bike and take hold of the bottom of the handlebar. Now look down at the top of the handlebar at the point where it intersects the handlebar stem. Check to see the position of the front hub in relation to this point. If it is in front, you need a longer stem. If it is behind, then you need a shorter one.

5. Place a spirit level on the saddle to check that it is flat. If it is not, undo the seat clamp bolt as in Step 3 and the saddle will then pivot up or down. Before you do this, position the spirit level along the top tube just to make sure the bike is level.

6. Check where the outer edges of the handlebar line up with your arm/should joints. They should be absolutely level. If you shoulders are wide, then handlebar will constrict your breathing. If they are narrower, then a narrower bar would make you more aerodynamic. For an example, click here.

Tips from the Peleton
Only make adjustments to your existing position in small increments of half a centimetre at a time.

Never position the handlebar so low that you have difficulty breathing when holding the bottom of the bar. Road racers tend to set their handlebar height low to improve aerodynamics, but leisure riders should position it to a comfortable height.

Be aware of increased pressure on your hands and arms – this could be an indication that the handlebar is set too low.

Once you find your ideal position, make sure you record every measurement for future use to save wasting time finding it again. For an example, click here

* Bikenut would like to offer its thanks to Trek UK for the use of their Trek 1.5, as feature in this guide and priced at £600. For further information about Trek's wide range of bikes and products, please visit their website

TIP: If the saddle is set too high or too low, you will not be positioned efficiently

STEP ONE: For your optimum saddle height, your leg should now be straight, so raise or lower the saddle until it is

STEP TWO: Throughout each pedal revolution your hips should be absolutely level. If they rock at all, your saddle is set too high, and you will have to go back to Step 1 to check the height again